Decisions

Stability of the known or insecurity of the unknown? For now, it's the latter...
Settle with the present or keep chasing the future? For now, it's the latter...
Let go of the past or seek a closure? For now, it's the latter...
Matribhoomi (motherland) or karmabhoomi (karma-land)? For now it's the latter...

Decision is a risk rooted in the courage of being free...

MSD: Beginning of the End?

When Mahendra Singh Dhoni (MSD) burst on to the international stage and made news for his long locks and powerful hitting, I was a proud underground student in his hometown of Ranchi. More than six years later, I am not just disillusioned with his plans for the Indian team but also by his apparent disregard for 'playing for the crowds' (did I sense a streak of arrogance there and if so, beware MSD - those crowds buy the products you endorse). In his transition from a stable wicketkeeper batsman symbolizing the rise of small towns within Indian cricket to the power center of this current Indian team, he has been giving ample signals of losing the plot and cracking under the pressure of being crowned the Indian cricket captain.

Let me explain.

In India, Mahendra Singh Dhoni has been appreciated for his powerful hitting and intelligent captaincy. The 'Captain Cool' took over at a time when Sourav Ganguly was almost unceremoniously told that his position was no longer tenable in the team. Pretty soon, he was leading an inexperienced team to glory in the inaugural World Twenty20, and winning the last tri-series to be held in Australia. When Anil Kumble handed over the Test reins in 2008, he celebrated with a home victory against Australia. Apart from the World Twenty20 win, his leadership also oversaw India's rise to the pinnacle of the Test ladder, and a massively successful three years for the Chennai Super Kings franchise that did well in each of the first three seasons of the IPL before winning the event in 2010, and going a step further to claim the Champions League in the same year. He could do no wrong - and here's where the problem lay.

Dhoni has emerged as a very strong voice in the selection committee. Just in the past couple of months, he has not only demonstrated the fact that he can keep his friends in the World Cup squad but also ruled out some strong candidates without much explanation. Now I understand that the captain needs to have a say in team selection and he needs to be confident about his players abilities to deliver. However, here are some oft asked concerns: ever since Yuvraj Singh hit those six sixes, nothing much was heard about him in the past two years except his ever growing belly. How come he was still given a chance almost at the expense of equally capable but lesser known players? How do we explain R. Ashwin making it to the team and not playing even one game even though Piyush Chawla has been completely off color? And seriously, if Zaheer and Yuvraj can carry those bellies on to the field, I'd rather much vote to give a younger, faster player a chance to prove himself rather than rely so heavily on the old order. 11 fresh players did win the inaugural Twenty20 World Cup, didn't they?

The point I am trying to make is that Dhoni has systematically provided opportunities to people he likes (Raina and Ashwin are glaring examples and both of them failed to carry their CSK form to the international arena). Yuvraj will play no matter what. And the bowlers - what can I say? Rather than complaining now that we don't have world class bowlers who can field as well, he should have cut them short two years back when their individual deficiencies were covered up with the euphoria of team wins. Honestly, why blame just Dhoni? The BCCI is equally complacent in the systematic erosion of quality bowlers in India - the IPL was tailor made for batsmenship, we agreed to play substandard bowlers who promised 150kmph but finally delivered only 120kmph (read Munaf Patel), we never questioned the shelf life of some pathetic fielders (read Ashish Nehra) and never bothered to look for a spinner beyond Bhajji until it was too late in the day.

Today's loss to South Africa in the World Cup was not lost because the Indian batting collapsed in the last ten overs, or because we failed to stop the singles or because (as most people believe) Nehra bowled the last over. We have been losing it inch by inch every time we decided to be intoxicated with victories under MSD, hailing our cricketers as demi gods one day and stoning their homes the other, and most importantly, not asking more tough questions. The victories and fan reactions are group behavior beyond individual control but on the third point I'd like to see a more proactive questioning of the BCCI for the money it makes from your and my emotions, the pitches being produced to groom only batsmen and how the game is moving from the one everyone loves to a soul less, money minting machinery.

I recall reading this article more than two years back and being moved to tears sitting in my office. Today, I am more than sure that once the great man retires, I'll have a lesser urge to watch the game ball by ball, all day long; which if done by many individuals of my generation should surely send a strong message that we're willing to give up something so dear to us if it is not properly managed. That should also take care (to an extent) of exaggerated fan reactions and the madness wherein sub standard performances are swept underneath the carpet. Until that happens, I am convinced that Dhoni is becoming a victim of not just how things have shaped up in Indian cricket during the past couple of years but also of the persona built around him - a captain that can deliver the improbable.

Winning this Cup won't be easy but even to come remotely close, the team and its captains need to be shaken out of their callous bubble. Even if we do end up winning, it seems like Dhoni's ramblings and arrogance has already set off a ticking time bomb that will take him and his pot bellied cronies down.

Of course, like every Indian cricket fan, I'm fervently praying for an Indian win with a Sachin century in the finals. Beyond that, RIP MSD.

Kotak Mahindra Prime: The Benchmark in Bad Banking

Dear Uday Kotak,

As such I do not write about my experiences with institutions (good or bad), but hey, there's always a first when some organization makes you feel so helpless that you do not know what else to do but write a blog. So, here's an open letter to you since you share your name with the banking institution that in my mind is synonymous with all that can be bad with stupid, private banks.

To start off, your bank doesn't really have the loyalty that an ICICI or SBI commands in India - the only reason I even dared venture take my car loan from Kotak Mahindra Prime is because of the enticing 3% interest rate that your guys offered. Little did I know then that the money saved in interest would go to Airtel, trying to call your call centers to lodge complaints.

So here's what my problem really is: My monthly EMI (due the 10th of every month) is supposed to be auto-deducted via the Electronic Clearing Service (ECS) to which effect I have filled out the forms and attested my signatures with my bank thrice in presence of your "banking executive". However, every month, no money was ever deducted and your "extortionists" (read: collection agents) always knock up later in the month asking for cheques. Every month your call center employees would say that the ECS is not working because 'a new form now needs to be filled' or that something is not working at your end. Really? I mean I have filled out and signed on every form you guys want me to fill, thrice! And I am willing to fill more if need be. However, your Hyderabad office is not working on Saturdays (which leaves me with the option of only calling on weekdays). Last week I've called your national call center, your Hyderabad office and also my car dealer out of desperation but Kotak officials never got back as to how I can pay you! On top of everything, yesterday your bank sent me a notice to pay up the dues along with a fine of Rs. 10,268!!! I must say, you have some really nice ways to make up for that low interest rate but your bank can kiss that number good bye coz I am not paying a dime extra for Kotak's mismanagement.

Oh, and btw, what really happened to those extra 6 cheques your bank took in case the ECS did not work or if I did not really pay up? Why don't you guys encash those instead of fining the customer for no fault of theirs? And in what world does skipping an EMI of Rs. 8,607 invite a fine of Rs. 10,268? Who is doing your math?

If you ever read this letter, please know that I would have paid your legitimate dues had I known how to. ECS does not work, you do not encash the extra cheques, your officials do not call back (registered a complaint twice with your national call center) and now, your private bank does not work on Saturdays. Really, if you do not want my money, its cool but at least don't bother sending notices!

Oh, and one last thing, please invest in making your website customer friendly and give us the option of a customer login - this is 2010 and no one has the time or energy to run after your woefully sad banking institution to accept our money every month.

Sorry, but I hope your bank closes sooner than later.

Helpless and disheartened,
Your Customer

Leh and Ladakh

“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Recently I took a 6 night, 7 day trip to Ladakh which is the highest plateau of the Indian state of Kashmir with much of it being over 3,000 m (9,800 ft). Inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and ethnic Tibetan, it is one of the most sparsely populated regions in the area. Ladakh is sometimes called "Little Tibet" as it has been strongly influenced by Tibetan culture. On popular demand, here's where all I went along with pictures of some of the most breathtaking views I've seen.

Day 1: New Delhi to Leh

Situated at the height of about 3,505 meters above sea level, Leh is the most beautiful and easily accessible place in Ladakh. Leh is the most common entry point to Ladakh region. Leh is connected by air from Delhi and it takes about 65 minutes to reach Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport from Delhi. Surrounded by the majestic Himalayan peaks, Leh is rinsed by the Zanskar River, which meets the Indus below. The temperature during the winter dips below zero and hence July to September is the best time to visit Ladakh.





Tip: Day 1 is spent getting acclimatized to the high altitude and low levels of oxygen - trust me, you would need this day to relax if you're coming in the from the plains. Try exploring the main Leh market in and around the mosque.


Also, plan your days in two halves - before lunch and after lunch - it's important that one rests during the day else exhaustion and altitude sickness can take you down real quick.

Day 2: In and Around Leh

Day 2 began with a light breakfast at the hotel and jumping in to our Toyota SUV which we had booked for the duration of the journey.


Phyang Monastery of Ladakh is situated at a distance of approximately 40 km to the west of Leh town. There are a number of sacred shrines situated inside the monastery complex. Also, there are some exquisite wall paintings, dating from the royal period, adorning the monastery. Phyang contains numerous sacred shrines inside the monastery, frescoes dating from the royal period, and a 900 year old museum which has an extensive collection of idols including a number of fine Kashmiri bronzes probably dating to the 14th century, thangkas, Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian firearms and weapons.








After Phyang, we traveled to the Spituk Gompa which is perched on a high hill overlooking the Indus river and well as the main Indian Army base in the area. The Spituk monastery is known for its collection of Buddhist artifacts. One can see the Indian Army helicopters practicising sorties all through the day and the view from this hill is simply breathtaking.







Hall of Fame near Leh is worth a visit for every citizen. It is a glorious museum constructed by Indian army. You can see the memorabilia, eminent defence personalities with biographies, images and weapons used during Kargil war and belongings of enemy soldiers found at war site. Another section of this building is entirely dedicated to Siachen and its heroes.





After a quick lunch and a brief nap, I headed to the Shanti Stupa. which is an impressive white-domed structure in Chandspa that is beautifully illuminated at night. It was built by a Japanese Buddhist organization to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism and to promote World Peace. The Shanti Stupa was inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1985. The views of the sunset and sunrise from the Shanti Stupa are especially spectacular and the majestic Budhist artistry add more than a dash of color to the barren mountain surroundings.









Tip: In between Phyang and Spituk, one can stop at what is known as the 'Indus View Point'. This point offers great views of the Indus valley. As your driver to show you the only ice hockey ring in that region, which of course, would be a pond in the summer.





Day 3: In and Around Leh

Day 3 began on a scary with both my friend and I waking up with splitting head aches. Both of us had vomited at least once during the past couple of days and it seemed like the trip would have to be cut short since my friend started having a pain in his chest. We decided to pop in some medicines and move on - it worked like magic and the trip was rescued.

We drove 40 kms east of Leh to the wonderful meeting place of two main rivers in the region - the Indus and the Zanskar. The Sangam, as it is popularly known, offers a pristine view of the mountains and blue waters gushing down from the glaciers high above us.




Magnetic Hill, located on the Leh-Kargil-Batalik national highway, is a gravity hill located on the way back to Leh from the Sangam. The hill is alleged to have magnetic properties strong enough to pull cars uphill and force passing aircraft to increase their altitude in order to escape magnetic interference; in reality, the effect is an optical illusion created by the gravity hill.





A little further on our way back to Leh, one can stop at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, where Guru Gobind Singh once meditated.





In the evening, we drove up to the Leh Palace which was the residence of the Ladakhi royal family. There is an Rs. 5 entry fee for Indian nationals and Rs. 100 for foreign nationals. Since the palace was undergoing renovation when I visited, I found it pretty dull and boring as compared to the otherwise colorful Ladakh.




A few hundred metres above the Leh Palace lies the Tsemo Gompa. One of the most treasured possessions of this Gompa is a three-story high solid gold idol of Maitrieya Buddha (future Buddha, also known as the laughing Buddha). Near the monastery is an old fort, which, because of neglect, lies mostly in ruins now. One can trek up to the Tsemo Gompa from the Leh Palace however, we decided to drive so as not to risk tiring ourselves again.



Tip: I would recommend timing your visit to the Gurudwara around lunch since the langar there is delicious. Indian Army personnel can be seen cooking and serving at this place.

Day 4: Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La Pass

Day 4 started with a 4 hour drive from Leh to Nubra Valley where we would be spending our next couple of days.

Khardung La located 40 Km north of Leh links the capital of Ladakh with the road to the Siachen Glacier. It said to be the world's highest motorable pass at 18,380 ft or 5,602 m. The spectacular view and a cup of tea from the tea-stall at Khardung La, will make you feel you're on top of the world. One should take a couple of minutes before getting in to the snow at Khardung La - my friend's and my head was spinning as soon as we stepped out of the car due to the rarefied air.







Nubra Valley is about 130 kms from Leh. The Shyok River meets the Nubra (the Siachen Glacier melts in to this river) to form a large valley that separates the Ladakh and the Karakoram Ranges. Along the Nubra river lies the village of Sumur where we had rented a cottage. The owner of these cottages, Lt. Col Stobdan Kalon (Retd.) was part of the first team from the Indian Army to step foot on the Siachen Glacier. This lovely campsite by the river, close to the village, like some others in Nubra, offers good tents-for-two with beds and a table and common dining and wash rooms. The villages are irrigated and fertile, producing wheat, barley, peas, mustard for oil, and a variety of fruits and nuts. Since the valley is at lower elevation, it has a mild climate. This climatic condition has created lush vegetation in the valley and the valley is, therefore, called the “Orchard of Ladakh". Pictures do not do justice to the beauty of this place and it is one of the most scenic places I have witnessed. We took long walks in Sumur village on this day and soaked in the mesmerizing views that it had on offer.
















Tip: Since Ladakh is on India's sensitive north western border, the movement of foreign tourists is restricted in some areas of Ladakh. You WILL need an Inner Line Permit to go to Nubra Valley so check with your travel operator on this.

Day 5: In and Around Nubra Valley

Day 5 began early and we set out to explore the valley and its many wonders.

Hunder is a village after Diskit Village in Nubra Valley. Its more peaceful with more pastures around. Hunder runs into a desert, a vast stretch of sand dunes. The desert against the backdrop of the rugged reddish-brown mountains, the rolling sand dunes seem truly out-of-the-world. One will see a few double-humped Bactrian camels treading through the sands and one can take a camel ride on them too.


















Diskit Monastery also known as Deskit Gompa or Diskit Gompa is the oldest and largest Buddhist monastery (gompa) in the Nubra Valley. Approach to the monastery is through a flight of steps made of stones, which lead to the prayer hall of the monastery. Diskit Gompa has quite an interesting legend attached to it. It is believed that a Mongol demon once lived here and was considered to be a sworn enemy of Buddhism. He was annihilated near the monastery. However, even after his death, his body kept coming back to the monastery again and again. It is said that even today the wrinkled head and hand of the demon lie inside a temple of the monastery, which is filled with fierce Gods and Goddesses. Personally, I loved the 270 degree view of the Nubra valley from top of this Gompa - no words can describe its serenity and peaceful beauty.










The waters of the hot sulphur springs at the village of Panamik, the last destination travellers are permitted to travel to in Nubra, are believed to have certain medicinal qualities that cure a number of ailments.

The Samstanling Gompa at the relatively bigger Sumur Village is definitely worth a visit, and houses a fine collection of idols, frescos and tangkhas (painted and embroidered scrolls).















Tip: The walk back from Samstanling Gompa to Sumur village around sunset is best walk you can take for a long long time.

Day 6: Back to Leh

Day 6 began with our 4 hour ride back to Leh. This time the altitude sickness did not kick in around Khardung La. The snow had melted by the tonnes in the past 3 days and a lot more tourists were to be seen than when we had first come there.










Tip: Tibetan Refugee Market on Old Leh Road is another ideal place for shopping in Leh. For Tibetan-Ladakhi items of art one can head to Government Emporium.

Day 7: Back to New Delhi

The last day is the time to say good bye to this piece of heaven.

Tip: Be sure to arrive well in time for your flight - there is 4 layers of security at the airport.

ps: I was very happy with my travel package although I missed out on Pangong Lake. If I were to do this again, I will make spend one day less in Leh and go visit Pangong.